NORTHERN ST. JOHNS COUNTY

County Road 210 meanders across the tip of St. Johns County , connecting the Atlantic Ocean with the St. Johns River . In some places, it remains a quiet country road dotted by marshes and bays stretching inland form the Intracoastal Waterway and flanked by open fields where horses graze.

Now, a plethora of upscale master-planned communities-some the size of small cities-are springing up in this once rural setting south of Jacksonville . New residents are attracted by the county's stunning natural beauty, its convenient location and its highly touted school system, among other assets.

The most recent data available from the U.S. Census Bureau indicates St. Johns County is the ninth-fastest growing count in the nation, with a 6.7 percent population increase between 2003 and 2004.

Much of that growth was in the county's northwest sector. According to county records, St. Johns officials in 2004 approved developments encompassing about 61,000 single-family homes, mostly along the burgeoning C.R. 210 corridor. Pre-sales in the first two phases of Nocatee began this summer, and Nocatee Parkway , stretching from the Intracoastal Waterway to U.S. 1, is scheduled for completion in mid-2007.

Although a boom is clearly underway, St. Johns County officials are planning ahead to preserve the area's quality of life. In 2004, a 180-member task force called St. Johns Vision released a strategic plan for the county, pinpointing six "foundation areas," including education, economic development, infrastructure, quality of life, government and private-sector leadership.

Civic groups from Palm Valley and Ponte Vedra Beach have joined the effort. The overall goal, according to Vision executive director Jim Sutton, is "to make St. Johns County the No. 1 place in the country to live and work."

In addition, the St. Johns County Commission has taken steps to ensure that current residents have a say in how the area grows. The so-called Neighborhood Bill of Rights expands notification of re-zoning to include neighborhood associations and requires developers to meet with nearby property owners and civic groups with county staffers present, to discuss concerns and suggest solutions.

PONTE VEDRA BEACH

The home of The Players Championship golf tournament and some of Northeast Florida 's most expensive real estate was a mining camp in 1914, when two young chemical engineers discovered more than a dozen industrial minerals in the dunes along the ocean.

What is now Ponte Vedra Beach was called Mineral City in those days, when the National Lead Company began producing titanium and zirconium during World War I.

But when the war ended and demand for minerals slackened, National Lead ceased mining and converted the property into the region's first golf and country club - the precursor of today's Ponte Vedra Inn and Club - for the exclusive use of its executives and directors.

Jacksonville developer Telfair Stockton brought 800 acres from National Lead in 1942, building homes and expanding the golf course.

In the early 1970's, half-brothers Paul and Jerome Fletcher bought 6,000 acres from a company that had planned to develop a manufactured home community and began selling off tracts for such upscale developments as Sawgrass. The Fletchers also started their own luxury community, Marsh Landing.

The PGA Tour was attracted to Ponte Vedra Beach by a now-legendary 1978 real estate deal in which the Fletchers sold PGA Tour Commissioner Deane Beaman 415 wooded acres for one dollar. Beman certainly got a bargain, but the presence of the Tour and its signature tournament also vastly increased the value of the Fletcher' holdings.

Sometimes overlooked is the fact that Ponte Vedra Beach is also home to the Association of Tennis Professionals, which holds its Pro Tennis Classic Here each October, as well as various exhibition matches and tournaments throughout the year.

Some of the Beaches' best restaurants are located in Ponte Vedra, including Medure, Aroma's Cigar & Wine Bar and Aqua Grill. Casual dining options also abound. Sawgrass Village is home to the second in the chain of Murray Bros. Caddyshack restaurants, while casual dining on the Intracoastal is offered at Barbara Jean's, Lulu's Waterfront Grille and The Bridge Café.

Oceanfront or Intracoastal lots in Ponte Vedra Beach can command seven figures, although an occasional condominium farther from the water can offer the panache of a Ponte Vedra address for as low as the $200's.

There is little room for large new developments in Ponte Vedra Beach or neighboring Palm Valley , but smaller projects are popping up. Last year, St. Johns County approved five developments along Palm Valley Road , ranging in size from 14 to 61 single-family homes or condominium units.

THE BEACHES

Mayport, Atlantic Beach , Neptune Beach and Jacksonville Beach are contiguous coastal communities known for lively pubs and good restaurants. Increasingly these low-key communities are attracting affluent homebuyers charmed by the laid-back and unpretentious ambiance.

"The Beaches," as locals refer to the area, although tied to Jacksonville by geography, have steadfastly sought to maintain separate identities. When Jacksonville and Duval County adopted a consolidated government in 1968, the three beach cities insisted on retaining their own municipal governments.

Starting from the north, here's a look at these once-remote cities settled by rugged pioneers, which still attract people seeding a casual, coastal lifestyle.

Unincorporated Mayport, at the mouth of the St. Johns , retains a gritty rough-and-tumble charm and is home to commercial fishing and shrimping operations, as well as the huge Mayport Naval Station. Locals enjoy traveling there via ferryboat, which travels between Mayport and Hecksher Drive at the southernmost tip of Fort George Island .

The main attractions: dining at rustic seafood eateries such as Singleton's, a local landmark; buying fresh seafood just off the boat; or chugging beers at the colorful drinking establishments along Mayport Road . Gambling cruises also depart from Mayport daily, with charter boats available for deep-sea fishing excursions.

Mayport was originally known as Hazard because the large, dangerous sandbar at the mouth of the river made navigation tricky. By the 1830's, it was a bustling little village in which most residents were employed by a sawmill. In the 1870's Mayport was a popular getaway for Jacksonvillians, many of whom built cottages along the ocean. In the 1880's construction of two huge jetties allowed ships to enter the channel safely, boosting Jacksonville 's stature as a port city.

In 1899, Henry Flagler's Florida East Coast Railway bought the defunct Jacksonville & Atlantic Railway, which ran from Arlington to Jacksonville Beach . Flagler, the legendary developer, then extended a northward ling to Mayport, making all the Beaches communities more accessible. That tradition continues today with the $110-million Wonderwood Expressway, connecting Mayport to Arlington .

In 1914, heiress Elizabeth Stark bought acreage around Ribault Bay and built and elaborate estate called Wonderwood-by-the-Sea. Several silent movies, including a handful starring Laurel and Hardy, were made there during Jacksonville 's filmmaking years. The U.S. Navy purchased the property during World War II.

Today the only historic buildings in Mayport are the Old St. Johns Lighthouse, a 145-year-old tower listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the nearby wood-frame Mayport Presbyterian Church. The eight-block downtown consists mainly of shabby seafood packinghouses and a handful of funky restaurants.

Mayport proper, however is getting a facelift. The Mayport Waterfront Partnership is a bi-city, multi-agency task force created to revitalize the village. Through it, roads were paved, sewer lines laid and a proposal is pending to install sidewalks and period lighting. Vestcor recently released plans for extensive redevelopment of the village into waterfront commercial and residential condominiums.

There's also plenty of natural splendor. Just south of the Naval Station is the 450-acre Kathryn Abbey Hanna Park, which boasts one and a half miles of beachfront, 300 campsites and 60 acres of stocked freshwater fishing lakes. The Poles of Mayport, named for the pilings that separate the Naval Station from the park, is renowned as the region's best surfing spot.

In contrast to its working-class neighbor to the north, Atlantic Beach begins as a lavish playground for the wealthy. In 1899, his rail line complete, Flagler began to develop the area as a resort community, the centerpiece of which was the fabulous Continental Hotel.

The hotel, completed in 1901, was at the time, one of the largest wooden buildings in the South. But the Continental burned to the ground in 1919. By then, Atlantic Beach was attracting year-round residents, thanks in large part to the 1910 opening of Atlantic Boulevard , connecting Arlington to the Beaches.

Today, Atlantic Beach 's tree-lined streets are primarily residential, with funky old beach cottages next to sprawling new mansions. Non-beachfront residents can access the sand and surf from many well-placed, well-maintained dune crossings.

There's also plenty of action in Atlantic Beach . The Town Center area of Atlantic Boulevard between Third Street and the ocean, refurbished in the late 1990's, boasts some of Northeast Florida 's liveliest nightspots. Among the most popular is Ragtime Tavern Seafood & Grille, Jacksonville 's oldest brew pub. A little farther west, residents enjoy two Irish pubs-Fly's Tie and Culhane's-the Atlantic Theaters Comedy Club, and dining options ranging from The Tree Steak House to Po'Boy's Creole Café'.

Spunky Neptune Beach , smallest of the Beaches communities, was originally part of Jacksonville Beach . It was incorporated as a separate entity following a 1931 "tax revolt" by residents who felt they were receiving short shrift on city services.

As Beaches property values increase, Neptune Beach remains a place where diligent shoppers can still find a fixer-upper for around $300,000. Renters, taking up residence in garage flats and duplexes, also have plenty of options.

Neptune Beach 's most notable landmark is perhaps Pete's Bar, a friendly hole-in-the-wall mentioned in the John Grisham bestseller, The Brethren. Pete's, established in 1933, is the oldest continuously operating tavern in Northeast Florida and attracts a loyal clientele with its everybody-knows-your-name ambiance and 25-cent billiard tables. The Town Center area is also home to popular hangouts such as Slider's, Sun Dog Diner and Caribbee Key as well as a mixture of quaint shops and professional office buildings.

The largest, oldest and southernmost Beaches community is Jacksonville Beach , originally known as Ruby Beach , named for the daughter of a pioneering family who settled the area in the 1880's.

Jacksonville Beach has long offered and escape for harried inlanders, first with resort hotels like the 350-room Murray Hall in the 1890's, and later with an amusement park featuring a wooden roller coaster.

The city earned international recognition in 1922 when Lt. Jimmy Doolittle broke the transcontinental speed record, flying from Jacksonville Beach to San Diego in under 24 hours.

But the community really started to grow when Beach Boulevard opened in 1949, supplying a second, more southerly route from Jacksonville to the coastal communities.

In 1998, a Mediterranean-style city hall was built. Four parks were acquired in 2000: Latham Plaza , with the Sea Walk Pavilion, South Beach Park and a site for a new pier between Fourth and Fifth Avenues. Hurricane Floyd wrecked the old wooden pier in 1999, but its 1,300-foot-long replacement is made of concrete. For a living view of the area's history, visit the new Beaches Historical Society museum.

Once a mecca for rowdy festivals, Jacksonville Beach gentrified city leaders have scaled back such events. For example, the huge Fiesta Playera, a celebration of Latin music and culture, moved to Jacksonville 's Metropolitan Park , while the Opening of the Beaches and Beaches Festival Weekend were considerably downsized. Springing the Blues, a three-day music festival held each April, has remained and is considered the city's signature event.

Even without big events, nightspots are busy. Among the hot destinations: the Ocean Club, a noisy disco; upscale restaurants like Eleven South, Max's and Buona Sera; Sneakers Sports Grill, a 12,000-square-foot state-of-the-art sports bar; and two Irish pubs: Lynch's, smoker-friendly with live music; and Fionn MacCools', built in Ireland and shipped here for re-assembly.

The Beaches lifestyle has helped fuel a condominium boom. Five multifamily developments have been built in the past two years, four are under construction and at least 20 others are on the drawing board. That's remarkable considering that no new complexes were built in Jacksonville Beach between 1987 and 2002.

ST. JOHNS COUNTY

PONTE VEDRA BEACH in the Northeast corner of St. Johns County between the ocean and the Intracoastal Waterway , offers a mix of housing from resort living and multimillion-dollar oceanfront mansions to attractive condominiums, for those seeking a low-maintenance lifestyle. A mix of residential development, retail and office buildings combines with good schools, and active arts community, several large churches and the beaches' only synagogue to make Ponte Vedra Beach a family-friendly community.

South of Ponte Vedra, many older oceanfront vacation homes along A1A are being replaced by large, elegant dwellings. Low-rise condominiums aplenty are also available, from small developments to gated, private beach club communities. At the tip of the barrier island is tiny Vilano Beach . This primarily residential community has an ambitious long-range redevelopment plan for a town center concept that will bring a main street including shops, restaurants and entertainment within walking distance of homes in the area. Property values are already rising in anticipation.

SWITZERLAND and FRUIT COVE are located east of the St. Johns River in Northwest St. Johns County . A bit of a drive from Jacksonville and St. Augustine , the area's residents prefer rural life or subdivisions with room to stretch out. Development is inching it way southward, however, and this sleepy area is seeing a new burst of growth as upscale communities and retail centers spring up. Just to the east, gated golf course communities and small shopping centers are setting the pace for the area west of I-95 along CR210.

ST. AUGUSTINE is considered the oldest continuously settled city in the nation. A complete range of living is here, from rural to subdivisions to posh oceanfront homes and condominiums. There are even a number of private homes in the heart of historic downtown. In addition to the area's existing beachfront and waterfront condominium/marina developments, several new ones are planned. St. Augustine is home to Flagler College , as well as the Florida School the Deaf and Blind, and offers numerous outdoor festivals, concerts and events in the historic district.

NEIGHBORHOODS OF WORLD GOLF VILLAGE is strategically located 25 minutes form downtown Jacksonville and 20 minutes to historic St. Augustine . The World Golf Village features spectacular golf in a world-class community with world-class amenities. Wonderful residential neighborhoods, shops, schools, parks, golf courses, retail and commercial space, and environmental preserves are all available in this master planned community. The World Golf Village is also home to the World Golf Hall of Fame and north Florida 's only IMAX Theater, and residents enjoy frequent concerts, car shows and other events along the Walk of Champions.

St. Johns County 's newest planned community is Palencia . Located between the Tolomato River and U.S.1 in the north end of the county, the 1,450-acre upscale development includes single-family homes, condominiums, a clubhouse, town center, public park, golf, tennis, swimming, trails, boardwalks, and a 350-acre wetlands preserve. Palencia was also the site of the 2004 Jacksonville Symphony Showhouse, dubbed "Casa Del Rio"

DUVAL COUNTY

DOWNTOWN is the city's latest burgeoning residential area. It is bordered by San Marco on the south, the St. Johns River on the east, Union St. on the north and I-95 on the west. Long a place that became deserted after working hours, downtown is experiencing renewed interest, especially among young professionals. Several high-rise condominiums, loft and apartment buildings exist or are currently under construction, some of them riverfront. Many new developments are incorporating street-level retail featuring restaurants, entertainment and shopping. The new Main Library, located on Hemming Plaza , and the Jacksonville Museum of Modern Art next door to it, are also encouraging nighttime activity downtown, as well as the restored Ritz Theatre and LaVilla restoration project, and the more established Florida Theatre.

In the INTRACOASTAL WEST, often called the "West Beaches", rapid development of residential and commercial property continues. Bordered y the Intracoastal Waterway on the east and Kernan Rd. on the west, this area features numerous single-family home developments and retail centers, as well as private, gated communities with private clubs, retirement communities, the Mayo Clinic Jacksonville, and new high-rise and low-rise condominiums and yacht clubs along the Intracoastal. This area's southern border used to be Butler Boulevard , but new developments of upscale condominiums and single-family homes adjacent to that corridor are pushing it farther south.

MANDARIN is one of the more heavily populated areas in Jacksonville , and for good reason. Although it's a 30 - to 45 minute drive to downtown, southern Mandarin is full of majestic oaks and waterfront homes. Shopping and dining are plentiful. Some of Jacksonville 's more affluent citizens choose to reside here, but there are also a number of developments featuring homes in moderate price ranges. Mandarin lies south of Beauclerc along San Jose Boulevard, extending east from the river to Phillips Highway, and bordered on the north by Goodby's Creek. Most of the residential communities are located south of I-295, either on the river or east of it, and most were developed since the 1970's. Continue south past mandarin along the historic Bartram Trail (SR 13), and you'll venture into Julington Creek and Fruit Cove just beyond the St. Johns County line.

NORTH JACKSONVILLE is bordered on the north by the Nassau county line, on the south by the St. Johns River , by I-295 to the west, and extends east almost to the ocean. The Jacksonville International Airport is located here, along with the Anheuser-Busch Brewery and the Jacksonville Zoological Gardens . Via the Danes Point Bridge , the area is just minutes from established shopping and entertainment in Arlington , or via a short ferry ride from the village of Mayport . East of I-95, homes, condominiums, town homes and mixed-use communities are being developed at a fast clip, and the northside is still home to some of Jacksonville 's most reasonably-priced waterfront property.

A trip along Heckscher Dr. reveals a gentrifying industrial area, with large, new homes replacing older riverfront and marshside residences.

ORTEGA is the peninsula just south of Riverside/Avondale between the St. Johns River and the Ortega River . Beautiful riverfront estates are far enough apart for the Ortega Blvd. Traveler to experience some of the city's most beautiful downtown skyline views. Small parks along the river dot the neighborhood, which is also home to two of Jacksonville 's toniest private clubs, The Florida Yacht Club and Timuquana Country Club. Ortega was ranked 46 th on the Worth Magazine's list of the nation's wealthiest neighborhoods. Take the drive from Highway 17 up Ortega Boulevard , across the 1920's-era Ortega River Bridge to Herschel St. and St. Johns Avenue . Keep heading north and you'll find yourself in the middle of historic Riverside . It's a drive not to be missed.

RIVERSIDE and AVONDALE are on the west side of the St. Johns River , just minutes from downtown. One of the area's oldest residential neighborhoods, you'll find million dollar estates a block away from priced-to-sell renovation candidates. A beautiful and charming area with many old trees and parks, Riverside/Avondale is bordered to the west by Highway 17 ( Roosevelt boulevard) and to the east by the St. Johns River . The Ortega River defines its southernmost boundary, and I-95 separates the northern end from downtown. Stroll through three traditional neighborhood shopping areas: eclectic Five Points, King Street , and the upscale St. Johns Avenue . The Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens is located on the river, just north of the Jacksonville Garden Club, and several large, historic churches in the area feature outstanding community concert series. An increasing number of high-rise condominiums are making more riverfront living available, while several of the area's larger old homes are being converted to bed-and-breakfast inns. Riverside is a desirable home for young professionals who eschew gated communities and want a short commute from work downtown.

SAN MARCO, LAKEWOOD and SAN JOSE are located just north of Beauclerc east of the St. Johns River and are bordered by U.S. 1 to the east. These neighborhoods were developed at the same time as Riverside/Avondale during the early part of the 20 th century. This high-demand area has upscale home prices and limited availability. In addition to homes, there are a number of older apartment buildings with hardwood floors, as well as both new and established low-rise condominium buildings along the river. Upscale neighborhood shopping boutiques and dining add to the area's desirability.